Blog – Page 2 – Maine Quilt Company

Posted on February 15, 2017December 8, 2021 by Julie Watkins — Leave a comment

How to Calculate the Finished Size of Your Quilt

Calculating the finished size of your quilt is an easy thing to do once you know its intended use. If your quilt is being used on a bed, you will need to know the following to calculate the finished size of your quilt:

The mattress width and length;
How much overhang is desired on the sides and on the end (foot) of the bd;
Whether the quilt will cover the pillows.

If you know what size your quilt is going to be, check out my new, online Quilt Calculator!

Crib quilts require careful consideration if they are intended to be used in the crib with the baby. Baby quilts are usually smaller than crib quilts. Throws and lap quilts are entirely up to the creator and/or user although some guidelines are helpful when first learning to quilt.

Mattresses come in standard sizes so it is easy to find the mattress size. Choose from one of the following sizes:

To determine how much overhang, decide where you want the finished quilt to fall on the sides of the bed. If you want the quilt to cover the mattress and box spring sides, measure the height of them. If you have a different spot you want the quilt to fall, measure down from the mattress top to the end of the fall. Multiply the answer by two and add it to the width of the mattress. Add the answer once to the length of the mattress. If you are not able to measure the height of the mattress and box spring, a good rule of thumb is to add 15” to 18” inches to each side of the mattress width to allow for overhang. Mattress thicknesses can vary considerably from 7” to 24”. Adding 18” is a fairly good compromise.

If you want the quilt to cover your pillows, add 12-15 inches to the length of your quilt. If you wish, you can measure the height of your pillows to give you the additional amount you need to add to the length.

Here is the simple formula for calculating the finished size of a bed quilt:

Quilt Width = Mattress width + (2 * overhang desired on side)

Quilt Length = Mattress length + overhang desired on end + length to cover pillows

Crib quilts are an exception. It is recommended that a crib quilt not be longer then the crib mattress to avoid having excess material around the baby’s face. Crib quilts should only be wide enough to tuck in lightly on the sides (approximately 4-5” wider than the mattress). Finished crib quilts should be approximately 32” x 52”.

Baby quilts are smaller than crib quilts. A good size for baby quilts is 32” x 42”. This is large enough to wrap around an infant or use under the infant when laying down. The width and height are such that it only takes one yard of backing and batting to make the quilt.

Throws can be made to cover a couch back, a chair back, or lay over a rocker. They can be any size you desire. Make the size to fit its use by measuring the area you want to cover or make a throw to feature the quilt and don’t worry about the size.

Lap quilts can be made to accommodate the intended user. They can vary considerably in size. Small lap quilts for chair use may be 34” x 44” to cover the legs. An average size adult lap quilt may be 46” x 60” to cover more of the body, while a larger, taller adult may like one 54” x 76”. If the quilt is to be shared by two people, you may want to make a wider, longer lap quilt to accommodate.

It isn’t difficult to calculate the finished size of a quilt. A quilt made for a bed will need a certain amount of overhang. Quilts for babies and young children need some careful consideration while quilts made for throws, laps or display can be any size desired. Experience is a very good teacher and once you have made a few quilts, you will become adept at determining the finished size of your quilt.

For a quick reference, print off the Quilt Size Guide to have on hand. It contains common mattress sizes and depths as well as the formula for calculating finished quilts for beds.

Posted on February 15, 2017February 15, 2017 by Julie Watkins — 1 Comment

Quilt Size Guide

Standard mattresses vary in thickness from 7” to 24”. Older mattresses are thinner while newer pillowtop mattresses are thicker. A 15” overhang would be fine on a bed with an older mattress. However, it would not work as well for a bed with a pillowtop mattress as it would leave about half of the mattress height exposed. When calculating length, take into consideration the distance needed to cover the height of the bed pillows if you wish your quilt to cover the pillows rather than lay under them. About 12 inches is the average except on a toddler bed, where you only need about 4 inches.

Formula to Calculate Finished Bed Quilt Size

Quilt Width = Mattress width + (2 * overhang desired on side)

Quilt Length = Mattress length + overhang desired on end + allowance for pillow tuck

Posted on January 20, 2017November 18, 2024 by Julie Watkins — Leave a comment

Tools of the Quilting Trade

I have read much about tools for quilting. A lot of people push expensive tools – rotary cutters, quilting rules, and cutting mats – and high end machines in order to be able to quilt. If you are new to quilting and your machine is 30 years old (or older) and you do not even own a rotary cutter, don’t worry. You can still quilt. When I started quilting, I went to my local department store’s craft section and bought a:

Fiskars 3-Inch-by-18-inch Clear Acrylic Quilting Ruler;
Fiskars Rotary Cutter;
Fiskars Cutting Mat, 12-Inch by 18-Inch.

These simple, inexpensive tools and my 35-year-old Singer got me started on my quilting adventure. The only stitch you need to do quilting is a straight stitch, so even the most basic machine can be used to make a quilt. Your grandmother’s treadle will work, as well.

I am assuming, since you have a sewing machine, that in addition to the machine, you have:

Sewing pins
Sewing scissors
Thread snippers
Stitch ripper
Seam guide

With these simple tools, you can get started making quilts. You do not need professional, expensive tools to make pretty, functional quilts. Remember, our grandparents and great-grandparents and our great, great, great, great- (add a few more greats in) grandparents did not have the luxury of any of these tools and did everything by hand. Technically, the only cutting tools you need are a ruler and a pair of scissors. So don’t waste your money buying expensive tools. Spend your money on fabric, instead. 😉

Posted on July 28, 2015December 5, 2021 by Julie Watkins — Leave a comment

A Seamstress’s Journey into the World of Vintage Sewing Machine Collecting

I have been sewing almost my whole life. I learned to sew on a treadle sewing machine that my mother had which belonged to my grandmother. On this old sewing machine, I used to make doll clothes and small projects for my younger sister and I. When I was teenager in the 70’s and my skill had developed considerably, my mom bought me a brand new Singer Stylist 534 Sewing machine. I remember how I marveled at this new, electric machine with settings not available to me on the old treadle – a zigzag stitch in varying widths, needle position setting, a reverse button, and most important of all, presets for making buttonholes.

At some point in time, the treadle sewing machine disappeared from my mother’s house and I never gave any thought to it. After all, it was an old, outdated sewing machine and I had my new, modern Singer. I loved my Singer sewing machine. Over the years, I sewed tons of clothing on this machine – blouses for myself, my mom and my sisters, dresses for my daughter and I, shirts and suits for my husband and son, active wear for my nieces and nephews, flannel shirts for my brother, as well as many, many other craft projects and décor items. I even started my first quilt ever on my Singer Stylist. I used my little Singer sewing machine for nearly 40 years, until a plastic gear dry rotted and broke. I was nearly finished making my first quilt, when it happened. Now I was without a sewing machine and I needed to finish my quilt.

I picked up a “working” sewing machine at a yard sale and tried to use that, but it wouldn’t stitch correctly no matter what I did. I got another at different yard sale, but that didn’t work right either. Both of these machines were probably made in the 90’s or so. Finally, I went to Wal-Mart and bought an inexpensive Brother sewing machine. I just wanted something to make a straight stitch and allow me to finish my quilt.

The Brother machine was light and slid around the table. I had a time trying to fit my queen size quilt through it. It was cheaply made and wasn’t designed for quilting. It did make a good straight stitch, but it was so light and flimsy as to be useless for my desired purpose.

By this time, I was getting very frustrated. I just wanted to finish my quilt made from scraps I had saved from years of sewing. It reminded me of one that was on my bed, when I was a girl. In desperation, I went to a local quilt shop to “look at” sewing machines. I came home with a new Janome 3160QDC deluxe quilting machine! “A full-featured machine made with a quilter’s needs in mind, the (Janome) 3160QDC will deliver all the benefits of a top of the line model, and with an affordable price. You’ll find 60 stitches including 6 one-step buttonholes. Janome’s Exclusive Superior Plus Feed System offers specialized box feeding on top of Janome’s SFS system, ensuring even, stable feeding with any fabric. And the time saving features including memorized needle up/down, one hand needle threader, and lock stitch button make sewing easy. Best of all, this full-size machine weighs only 12 pounds, so its easy to take to classes and guild meetings!” (from the Janome website at http://janome.com/en/machines/sewing/3160qdc/)

Alas, I would be able to finish my quilt! I excitedly sat down to finish putting in the final stitches of the quilting. I was dismayed to discover that my new “quilting” machine had a smaller throat than my old Singer had. It was very difficult to fit my queen sized quilt through the opening. Though the machine was heavier than the inexpensive Brother I had picked up, it was still much lighter than my Singer Stylist. It, too, slid across the table as I fed my quilt through the feed dogs. However, I loved the needle up/down feature and the easy needle threader. I had paid a fair amount of money for this new sewing machine, so I wasn’t ready to pass a harsh judgment on it, yet. Indeed, it did allow me to finish my quilt, which was very exciting for me.

My experience with my old Singer, the newer Singers purchased at the yard sales, the new Brother, and the brand new modern Janome sewing machine, made me think about how machines had developed over the years. The memory of learning to sew on the old treadle sewing machine at my mom’s house when I was a girl returned to me. I had pushed the memory of using that old treadle machine so far back in my mind that I had practically forgotten about it. Suddenly, I wanted a treadle sewing machine.

A couple of years ago, I happened to be in a quilt shop that was closing its doors. I saw a beautiful Red Eye treadle sewing machine the owner was selling for $150. After talking with my husband, I bought the machine. I brought it home and with my husband’s help, cleaned it, oiled it up, and got the belt onto it. When I went to wind a bobbin, I discovered the bobbin winder would stay out away from the wheel. The spring was broken. So I would a bobbin on my Janome and while my husband held the bobbin winder away from the wheel, I treadled the machine. It felt good and seemed very natural to me to be treadling. The machine stitched perfectly and I was absolutely amazed that this sewing machine, over one hundred years old, could still work so beautifully. But since the bobbin winder needed a spring, I set it aside until I could get it fixed.

Over time, I picked up several more antique sewing machines varying in age from 130+ years to just over 50 years, a couple more treadles and a few electrics. In my travels, I picked up some newer electronic models, too. I soon discovered that the antique machines made before the 50’s were mostly metal, very heavy, and designed to last. The newer machines, from the 50’s on, were made with plastic parts, though earlier models still had a lot of metal in them. The newest, modern machines made today are mostly plastic with some metal parts.

I think the most astounding thing I learned in collecting these machines is the term “planned obsolescence”. Planned obsolescence “in industrial design is a policy of planning or designing a product with an artificially limited useful life, so it will become obsolete, that is, unfashionable or no longer functional after a certain period of time.” (Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planned_obsolescence) Of course, planned obsolescence isn’t just used in making sewing machines, but in practically every product we see on the market, today. However, the idea that sewing machines once were made with the intention of long outliving their owners is astounding.

The antique machines made before the 50’s are rock solid machines. It doesn’t matter how dirty or rusty they appear, almost every single one of them can be “brought back to life” by cleaning and oiling. Once you have them threaded correctly and with a new sewing machine needles, they will all make the most perfect stitches you ever saw. One of the machines I picked up was frozen solid. Parts of it were fused together so you could not turn the hand wheel. After several days/weeks of oiling and trying, suddenly the wheel moved. Gradually, the parts freed up so it spun freely. Anxiously, I threaded up the machine and tried it out on cloth. Perfect stitches again. It simply amazes me.

Though I love my new, modern, computerized Janome 3160DQC sewing machine, it really isn’t a quilting machine as much as it is a piecing machine. The automatic thread cutter is a time saver and thread saver and the needle down/up feature helps in maintaining your place in a seam. However, the lack of throat space and the lightweight design serve to make the sewing machine less practical for use in actually quilting a full-size bed quilt. My 1975 Singer Stylist 534 is a still a very nice little machine, but its plastic parts that break make its life limited.

Knowing that no matter if my modern machine breaks down or the power goes out for days I can sit down at my old treadle sewing machine and stitch pieces together for quilt tops or sew a blouse or even quilt a large quilt gives me such piece of mind and contentment. As I my feet work the treadle and my hands move the cloth through the feed dogs, I like to think about the hands of the first owner working the cloth and how she must have marveled at the “modern-ness” of this sewing machine when it was new.

I now own about a dozen antique sewing machines, three treadles and several electrics, most of them Singers. I have a few Singer Model 15 clones, which are very nice machines. The nicest thing about any of these old electric machines is the fact that I could take any one of them and put it in a treadle cabinet and treadle the machine because the motors and belts on them are all on the outside where you can access them. From the “newer antiques”, my favorites are a Wizard from Western Auto and a pink Dressmaker, Singer 15 clone.

Incidentally, one of the antique machines I picked up was a 1904 Singer 27-4. In using this sewing machine, I realized that the treadle I used as a little girl must have been a model 27 with the shuttle bobbin. As I sat down to try it out for the first time, winding the bobbin, inserting it, threading the machine – it all seemed second nature to me. And the machine, even though it is over 100 years old, makes perfect stitches.

Though I don’t use the old machines very often, I take relish in their history and longevity. I am comforted by the fact that in the event of a power outage, I can still stitch anything I want. Whenever I want to step back in time, I sit down at the Singer 27-4 and make a few quilt blocks and think about the first person who owned her. The gentle clunk, clunk, clunk of the treadle working brings to mind the my days of own youth, sewing in my mother’s living room on her old treadle sewing machine.

I sometimes ask myself, “Do I need all these old sewing machines?” My answer is this: No, I don’t need all these old sewing machines, but better they are here with me than in a landfill or melted down for their metal.

Posted on July 22, 2015December 9, 2021 by Julie Watkins — Leave a comment

How to Make a 10.25-Inch Monkey Wrench Quilt Block from 5-inch Charm Squares

The old-fashion Monkey Wrench quilt block is easy to sew and makes up into a sweet little quilt. Here is a fast and easy way to make the time honored quilt block called Monkey Wrench by using precut 5” charm squares. Using this method, you get a 10 1/4 inch Monkey Wrench quilt block.

Note: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

To begin with, you will need seven of the 5” charm squares as follows:

2 matching medium or dark prints for the corners
2 matching light or medium prints for the corners
2 coordinating prints for the rectangles
1 print for the center (Cut this square into 4ths, evenly. You will only use 1/4 of this square.)

For my square, I chose the following prints:

Take each of the two matching medium or dark print squares and lay them out with one of the two light or medium print squares on top, right sides together, matching all four edges evenly. Draw a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner on each of the two sets. For the two coordinating prints, lay them right sides together, matching all four edges evenly.

Starting with the corner sets, stitch 1/4 inch away from each side of the diagonal line you drew.

For the coordinating set, stitch a scant 1/4 inch seam along opposite sides.

When you are done stitching, your pieces should look like this:

Using your rule, cut along the line you drew on the diagonals of the corner pieces.

Cut your coordinating rectangle piece into fourths, evenly.

Press open each piece, pressing the seam allowance to the darker side.

Snip off the rabbit ear pieces from the corner pieces.

Now lay out your pieces in three rows of three segments each, as shown below. Be sure your diagonal seams are all going in the same direction and the diagonal seams run from outside edge to outside edge.

If you don’t like the way your block looks, you can rotate the corner pieces so the prints swap places. Do the same for the rectangle pieces. Play around until you have what looks best to you. Stitch each row’s segments together. Then stitch the rows together, matching seams.

Press the seams flat from the back side. Turn and press smooth from the front side.

Sit back and admire your handiwork and marvel at how quick and easy it was to make this beautiful 10” Monkey Wrench block from 5” charm squares!

Thank you to susies-scraps.com for a great idea! You can see her tutorial and quilt by visiting: https://www.susies-scraps.com/2015/03/13/charmed-by-monkeys-quilt/

Looking for some 5-inch charm packs? Uses my affiliate link to buy your own 5-inch charm packs.

Posted on March 31, 2014January 15, 2017 by Julie Watkins — Leave a comment

Machine Stitching the Quilt Binding

A little while ago, I made a tutorial on machine stitching the quilt binding. I posted it on the Maine Quilt Company FaceBook page. You can view the tutorial with photos here:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.666223553421116.1073741838.451196728257134&type=3

Maching stitching the quilt binding

Posted on October 9, 2013January 15, 2017 by Julie Watkins — Leave a comment

Quilt Memories

I love quilts. I love scrap quilts, especially. I had always wanted to make a quilt from my saved scraps, which I finally did two years ago. When I started working on my quilt, which I was making in a crazy quilt fashion without all the decorative stitches, I had a memory come back to me from my childhood.

When I was a little girl, there was a scrap quilt on my bed. I can’t remember much about it except that it had a lot of pieces, it must of had a cloth foundation under the blocks, and it was colorful. I am guessing it had a foundation because I know it had a hole in it and when I put my finger in the hole, there was cloth underneath. I don’t know what happened to that quilt. I don’t know who made it. I would like to think it was made by my grandmother on her treadle machine.

I am not even sure if my grandmother owned a treadle machine, but since we had one, I am guessing it came from an ancestor. I know we had a lot of my grandmother’s household belongings in boxes in the barn after she passed. It is natural to think that the treadle was hers also, and the thought that follows would be that she made that quilt on my bed.

It is interesting that the memory only popped up once I started piecing my own quilt from scraps. The blocks reminded me of that quilt from my childhood. Somewhere, there might be a picture of that quilt as I know that there are pictures of our kitty lying on my bed. Someday, maybe I will see that quilt again, if only in a photo.

Crazy quilt scrap quilt — My first quilt ever made from leftover scraps from years of sewing

Posted on November 14, 2012January 15, 2017 by Julie Watkins — Leave a comment

The Making of a Quilt

Most people love quilts. I mean, who wouldn’t? They are bright and beautiful and warm and make us think of our ancestors. After all, quilts and quilting have been around for hundreds of years.

Anyone who knows someone who makes quilts is apt to say at some point in the relationship, “You should make me a quilt.” The statement is made as if you could step into your sewing room in the morning and pop out in the afternoon with a ready made full size quilt in your hand. Oh, if it were only that easy. Let’s look at what is involved in making a quilt.

The very first thing to decide is the pattern or design to use for the quilt. Until you know this, you do not know the next step which is what fabric to use. The two go hand-in-hand. Choosing the pattern takes a little bit of time. You browse through books and magazines, or search the web looking at quilting images of quilting patterns. If you find a quilt pattern you like, you are done. Sometimes, you find a block design you like and want to create your own pattern based upon that block. Then you have to do a lot of calculations based upon the desired finished size. What is the total number of blocks needed? Will they be sashed or unsashed? How wide is the sashing? Will the quilt have a border or two borders? If a border is wanted, how wide should the border be. All of these questions come into play when selecting a quilt design.

Selection of fabric for Back in Time Stars quilt

Once you have decided on design, then you can start deciding on fabric colors and patterns (the design on the fabric – calico, large floral, geometric, solids, batiks, etc.). Sometimes, this is an easy process as you may decide to go with the fabric colors and patterns of the quilt pattern you have selected. Other times, you may want to make your own selection of fabric colors and patterns. How do you choose colors and patterns of fabric? Sometimes, ideas come readily. Other times, you are looking at your own stash and finding the colors and/or patterns you want (but not having enough material to use for the quilt) or again, looking at finished quilts and noting the choices others have made. Then again, you may go to a fabric store and browse the aisles of fabrics, selecting from what is available and what looks good together.

The next step after you have decided on the pattern and the fabric colors and patterns is purchasing the fabric. It would be nice to be able to go down to the local fabric store and walk in, select the bolts that match your fabric choices, have them cut the fabric and head back home to begin your quilt. This is seldom the case. Most of the time, you will find some or most of what you need at one store, but then you will have to go to one, two, or several more to find the remaining pieces of fabric. Ordering online might be a little faster, but you can never be sure that the colors you see on screen will be the actual shades and tones of the fabric you receive. It is also difficult to judge from online samples exactly the size of the fabric pattern.

Once you have purchased all of the fabric you need to make your quilt, you must wash and iron all that fabric (this is not absolutely necessary, but highly recommended). An hour in the washer, an hour in the dryer and an hour or two ironing and folding the fabric and then you are ready for the next step – cutting the fabric.

Star pieces for the Back in Time Stars quilt

Cutting your fabric is a crucial step in making your quilt and takes considerable time. If this is a quilt or block pattern you have never made before, it is a good idea to make a test block or sample of the pattern out of fabric scraps. (I usually buy a little extra of the fabric for the quilt and use this to make my test block. That way, I can determine that I have made good fabric choices for the quilt.) This not only builds your skill in making the block or pattern, it helps you understand the purpose of each cut of fabric. You have to be careful and very precise in cutting your fabric pieces. You want your blocks to be uniformly sized and your points and corners formed correctly. Cutting the fabric can take several hours to complete.

Once you have all of the fabric cut, you organize your cut pieces and then begin sewing your blocks. You assemble, stitch and press your way to completing the total number of blocks or the pattern needed for your quilt top. Then you sew your blocks together into rows and then the rows are stitched together to form the quilt top. If you have chosen a quilt with sashing, once the blocks are completed, you have to stitch your sashing to the blocks and you have to stitch your sashing rows together, as well. Then you can sew all of the rows, block rows and sashing rows, together. If you have a border to add to your quilt top, then you sew the border pieces together and then stitch that to the quilt top. Was that one, two or three borders on that quilt? How long it takes to complete the top depends greatly upon the choice of pattern. It could take one day or many to complete the top.

After the top is fully assembled, it needs to be pressed completely and thoroughly. This allows the quilt top to lay flatter and smoother as you work with it to finish off the quilt. After ironing, you must lay it out on a flat surface so that you can measure its width and length. Even though your pattern may give you a finished size for the top, you need to measure your actual top to be sure of the size before cutting your backing and batting.

Now that the top is done, you can work on the back of the quilt. Since it is difficult to find material wide enough to cover a full size quilt’s width, it is likely that you will have to sew at least two sections together to make your quilt back wide. I am assuming here that you are using a “whole fabric” backing and not piecing a backing, which is another option, altogether. On a twin size quilt and some full sized, you will have one seam down the center back. A full/queen, queen and king will have two seams down the back. You will cut your purchased backing fabric in one or two sections each at the length of the quilt top plus 8 inches. Then you will sew these sections together. After stitching the back seams, you must press these seams open. So you spend an hour or so cutting, stitching and pressing the quilt back.

Quilt Sandwich for Back in Time Stars quilt
(Working on a cement floor is really hard on the knees!)

Now you have the quilt top done, the backing assembled and you are ready to layer the quilt. You need to have your batting smooth, so hopefully, you took that out of the package the day before you needed it and spread it out somewhere to allow the wrinkles to work out of it. If not, you will either work harder at smoothing the layers, when it comes time, or you will throw it into the dryer for 15 minutes or so to heat it up and allow the wrinkles to release. If you are like many people who quilt at home, you barely have enough room to lay the quilt layers (backing, batting, and quilt top) out on the floor, leaving just a few inches of narrow space around them. You spend the next hour or more on your knees smoothing the layers, tugging the edges, and making sure there are no bumps or ridges in any of the layers. Then you begin pinning the layers together to hold them in place while you quilt. You pin about 200 safety pins through the three layers of fabric working from the center out, continuing to smooth and still working on your knees (oh, those poor knees!).

Quilting the Back in Time Stars quilt
(I stitched in the ditch horizontally
and vertically along block edges)

Finally, you have the quilt layers securely fastened and you can begin – QUILTING! Hah, you thought you had been quilting all along. In reality, you made a quilt top and you made a quilt sandwich (putting the three layers together). The actual quilting is when you stitch through the three layers, securing them permanently together. One more decision has to be made: How will you quilt this quilt? What quilting pattern will you use – stitch in the ditch, simple straight lines horizontally and vertically placed, free motion stippling, or some other, more complicated design? You make your decision and you spend the next few hours (or days, depending on the design selected) quilting your layers, taking frequent breaks because the quilt is heavy. The larger the quilt, the heavier it is, and the harder it is to handle and maneuver in your home sewing machine. You back aches, your arms get tired, your eyes go fuzzy while you work, but you quilt on until your whole quilt has been quilted. Ahhh, what a feeling – you now have a quilt! It isn’t finished, yet, but it is a quilt.

Next step, trimming the edges all the way around to make your corners square and your sides and ends straight. Back to the floor the quilt goes again with you crawling all around it with your rotary cutter, a square, and a cutting mat trimming off the edges and squaring the corners. A half hour later, the last edge is trimmed and you marvel at the beauty before you and know you are only a short ways away from a beautiful, finished quilt. Before you relax, though, go find those measurements you had of the width and length of the quilt so you can calculate the length of the border you need to bind the quilt. A little more math, a little more cutting, and you have your binding strips ready to assemble.

So, now you can stitch your binding pieces together end to end with 90 degree angle seams. Yes, more math and a constant up and down as you trim the ends at your cutting mat, stitch the ends together at your machine, then press the seams open at your ironing board. Seven to eight seams later, you have your border stitched together. Back to the ironing board you go to fold it in half lengthwise (wrong sides together), pressing it as you fold for the whole 300 to 450 inches. Another hour spent calculating, cutting, stitching and pressing the binding. You are so close, now, you can taste the victory.

Ready to stitch the binding onto the quilt? But wait, you have to make a quick run around the edge of the quilt with the binding in hand, pinning it at the start and sliding your hands along to match binding and quilt edge to make sure no seam in the binding winds up at a corner on the quilt. If it does, you have to move your starting point and follow the binding along the quilt edge again, so you can be certain you will have no extra bulk on the corners of the quilt. Once done and you have your starting point, you can finally stitch your binding to the quilt edge. You have another hour invested.

After the binding is stitched, you press your binding towards the back of the quilt all the way around and while you do this, decide to either hand stitch the binding to the back of the quilt or machine stitch it in the ditch. Hand stitching will take longer, at least an hour or more, but you won’t have any problems making sure you cover your seam when you fold the binding to the back of the quilt. Stitching it down with in-the-ditch stitching will work and probably take less than a half hour, but you will probably wind up picking out some stitches, restitching certain areas, and you will still have to hand tack the corners to make sure your miters stay secured as you machine stitch over them. Whichever method you choose, the binding will be secured to the back of the quilt.

Back in Time Stars quilt finished
(I used a brown plaid for the backing
and I really like it, don’t you?)

Once this is complete, your quilt is done. Step back and congratulate yourself. Now, how long did that take you? Let’s see, if it was a simple nine patch with no borders or sashing, a whole cloth back, quilted with simple free motion stippling over the entire quilt and you worked on it every day from the first decision made to the last stitch of the binding, you might be able to get it done in less than a week. If it is a complicated pattern like a feathered star or compass rose and you have odd sized blocks, sashing with cornerstones, multiple borders with a pieced back, quilted in an intricate quilting design and you worked on it every day, you would probably need up to four weeks to complete the quilt. Of course, these time estimates are assuming you have nothing else to do except quilt. No housework, no job, no kids, no pets, no husband, no phone, no life – just quilting.

So, if you are considering purchasing a quilt and wonder at the price tag, know that a lot of time and effort went into the making of that quilt. If you have been fortunate enough to be the recipient of a handmade quilt, know that the individual who gave it to you must regard you hightly. Cherish it and use it and care for it as a lifelong friend.

P.S. I only talked about time involved in making a quilt. I did not mention costs. Here is quick breakdown of conservative costs of material for a queen size quilt (90×95 inches) based on fabric costs of $5 per yard. Quilting fabric can run as high as $10-14 per yard, so the fabric costs would be double or more, in this case.

Quilt top: $50
Quilt back: $42
Batting (purchased on sale): $32
Thread: $10
Total Est.: $134

Posted on November 13, 2012January 23, 2017 by Julie Watkins — Leave a comment

Free motion quilting – tips and tidbits

An example of free motion quilting – practicing making a feather

Free motion quilting is a type of quilting where you stitch curvy and/or complicated designs with a sewing machine without the feed dogs feeding the fabric. The operator controls the feed and direction of the fabric, moving it 360 degrees to create designs other than straight stitching.

The first obstacle on your road to free motion quilting is your machine and its ability to stitch correctly in “free motion” mode. Several things affect your machines ability to stitch, including:

Thread
Needle
Presser Foot
Feed dog
Machine settings
Fabric types

The second obstacle is your ability to move the fabric evenly and consistently “in tune” with your machine to create even stitches and smooth patterns. This falls under operator skill.

Let’s talk about each of these things one at a time to learn how each affects free motion quilting.

Thread
The thread you choose to use while quilting in the free motion manner should be very smooth and fine. It should feed easily off the spool and not “catch” as it feeds. A higher quality thread like Gutermann Sew-all thread or Isacord 40 wt. thread is recommended. Cheaper threads and all cotton threads tend to have little burs and snags that may be imperceptible to the naked eye, but will catch as you stitch and cause broken or frayed thread. If your thread does not come off the spool smoothly and evenly, the little interruptions in feed can cause the thread to rub against the needle and fray or break.

Needle
The needle you use should be recommended for your machine, new and sharp, not a ball point, and sized appropriately for the material. If you are stitching through cotton fabrics and cotton batting, a size 14 is recommended. If you are using lighter weight fabric, you may be able to go down a size. If you are using heavier weight fabric, you may need to go up a size. The most important thing is to use a new, sharp needle. If your thread is breaking frequently, it is either due to a dull, barred, or crooked needle, or poor quality or unevenly-fed thread.

Presser Foot
In order to free motion quilt, you must have a darning foot or free motion foot for your machine. This type of presser foot does not put a lot of pressure on your fabric and they allow you to see clearly all around your stitch area. Some darning and free motion feet have larger viewing areas than others. You want to be able to see clearly where you are going and where you have been. If your machine doesn’t have a free motion foot, you can buy a universal foot and use that. It is necessary to have a presser foot on your machine. I have tried to free motion quilt without one and my machine constantly broke thread.

Feed dogs
In order to be able to free motion quilt, you must be able to move the fabric freely and easily under the presser foot, as you are no longer stitching in a straight line. Having feed dogs that you can lower may be helpful. If your feed dogs do not lower, than you can always cover them with a piece of cardboard or thin plastic. Some models of sewing machines have a special needle plate to use which covers the feed dogs. However, I have found that it isn’t necessary to lower your feed dogs in order to free motion quilt, as you can still move the fabric layers without lowering them. It is helpful if you adjust the pressure of your foot to allow greater freedom of movement. If you have to force your fabric to move than you may cause jerkiness in your stitch pattern and/or the layers to shift and create bunching.

Practicing free motion quilting – actually “traced” a paper feather (silver area), wrote my name, and generally just fooled around with it.

Machine Settings
The settings on your machine can affect your stitch quality as you free motion quilt. The only way to know what settings you need is to experiment. The tension dial most likely will need a higher setting. You may need to adjust your stitch length to zero. Your presser foot tension may need to be set at is lowest setting. As mentioned before, you might want to lower or cover your feed dogs. This is purely on trial and error, as each machine and each operator is different. I suggest you start out with your tension dial at its normal setting, your stitch length at zero if you lower or cover your feed dogs, and your presser foot tension at its lowest setting. Make adjustments on each setting one at a time so you know which adjustment is affecting your stitch quality.

Fabric types
I have noted that different fabrics can affect, not only the quality of the stitches, but the frequency of the thread fraying or breaking. Polyesters and polyester blends cause more problems than cotton materials. If you have mixed fabric types in your quilt, you may find that you have to make adjustments according to the fabric type through which you are stitching. If you just starting out with free motion quilting, start with cotton fabrics and cotton batting and concentrate on getting the settings and tools right for your machine. Once you have a good quality stitch with little trouble, than try other fabric types to see how your machine handles them. Then you can make adjustments specific to the fabric type.

Operator skill
The first time you free motion quilt, you most likely will notice that your stitches are not locking on the back side. If they are not locking at all, then your machine settings are not correct. Start with the tension dial and move it slowly one way or the other and quilt. Check the stitch quality as you make changes to determine whether the stitching is better or worse. When you think you have improved it, try changing your stitch length to zero and see what happens. If you notice that the stitch is correct sometimes, but in certain places, it isn’t locking, than you have your machine settings correct. What is needed now is more skill from the operator. Pay attention to where the stitches go wrong – when you’re stitching backwards or sideways or on upward curves or downward curves – and try adjusting the speed of your machine to more evenly match the speed of your movements. It is likely that you are moving the fabric too quickly and “pulling” the needle thread rather than letting it feed naturally. If your stitches are very tiny and close together, you are moving the fabric too slowly and the machine is making too many stitches for the distance covered. Either slow your machine speed or move your fabric more quickly. You are aiming for properly locked and evenly spaced stitches. It is very difficult to remain consistent 100% of the time, but the more you practice, the better you get. A pair of quilting gloves or good-fitting exam gloves can make a big difference in your ability to move the fabric easily.

It takes a lot of practice to get good at free motion quilting. The first “good” is even stitch length and correctly formed stitches. The second “good” is creating the patterns or designs that you desire. Practice, practice, practice. Take frequent breaks, relax while you work, and practice. Free motion quilting is both a skill and an art form. It is not for the faint of heart. It takes time and practice to be good at it, but once you have mastered it, you are free to quilt your quilts with beautiful, intricate designs.

Check out the video on You Tube of me quilting a twin size quilt on my home sewing machine using free motion quilting. I apologize for the graininess, but it is clear enough to see how I do it. The video makes free motion quilting look easier than it is. It looks like everything moves along so smoothly, but when you are the operator, it doesn’t feel that way at all. My sewing machine is a Janoome 3160QDC.