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How to Make a Quilt Jacket in 10 Easy Steps

Quilt Coat
Handmade quilt jacket.

Quick View of the 10 Easy Steps

  1. Select a jacket pattern.
  2. Select the quilt pattern.
  3. Select the fabrics.
  4. Measure your pattern pieces.
  5. Create “mini quilts”.
  6.  Wash and dry your mini quilts.
  7. Cut out your jacket pieces from your mini quilts.
  8. Sew your jacket.
  9. Bind the raw edges around the jacket front, bottom and sleeves.
  10. Add desired embellishments.
  1. Select or create a jacket pattern. Choose a pattern with as few pieces as possible or create a simple jacket pattern with the following pieces:
    • Pocket
    • Front
    • Back
    • Sleeve
    • Collar or hood
    • Pocket
  2. Select the quilt pattern for your quilted pieces. You can go very simple and use one fabric for the main part and a second for the backing. You could use individual squares sewn together, or use detailed quilt blocks with or without sashing.
  3. Select the fabrics. You will need approximately 5 yards of fabrics. Amount of each will vary depending on your quilting pattern. If you want a variety of fabrics, choose 16-20 fat quarters. Always make sure you have some extra on hand in case of mistakes or miscalculations.
  4. Measure your pattern pieces at the widest and longest points to determine each pattern piece’s width and height. Add about 6% for shrinkage if using unwashed fabric. Write these measurements down in the following manner with the width first and the length second. The number in parentheses before the width and length is for the quantity of each you need. You will need at least two fronts, two sleeves, one back, one hood (or collar) and one or two pockets depending on your pattern.
  5. Create “mini quilts” in each size stated above based on your quilt pattern from #2 above. As you create the “mini quilts” tops, keep your pattern piece handy and think about the placement of your quilt blocks or squares and where they will fall in the finished jacket. For your two fronts and sleeves, you can create mirror pieces, completely different pieces, or complementary pieces. On the jacket back, you can feature a special quilt block or fabric piece. Be creative and have fun. Back and bat each mini quilt top just like a real quilt. You do not need to bind the edges as you would a finished quilt. However, you should either serge or stitch around them. Serging is the best choice. Second best is to use a zig zag stitch letting it overlap the raw edges. Third best is a straight stitch all around. When you are done, you will have a mini quilt for each part of your jacket.
  6.  Wash your mini quilts in lukewarm water and tumble dry. This will allow shrinkage to occur before you make your jacket. It also gives your quilted pieces that nice crinkly quilty look and feel. Include a piece of the backing material that you can use for your seam binding. Remove your mini quilts and backing from the dryer immediately after the dryer stops and make sure your pieces are completely dry. Lay your pieces flat.
  7. Using your pattern and the correct mini quilt for each pattern piece, cut out your jacket pieces from your mini quilts. Remember to cut the quantity you need of each pattern piece and to cut the second one in REVERSE. In other words, cut one front with the pattern face up, then cut the second front with the pattern face down so you have a left front and a right front with your quilt pattern on the correct side of each. The same for your sleeves. Transfer any pattern markings that you need to the cut pieces.
  8. Follow your sewing directions to sew your jacket. As you sew, finish each seam. First, trim the seam to ¼ inch. Then finish it with a piece of seam tape or a serger. For a nice, finished look, use boughten or handmade seam tape and bind each seam. A single piece centered over the seam overlapping the raw seam edges and stitched down on both sides creates a very professional finish.
  9. Once your jacket is sewn, make quilt binding and finish the raw edges down the fronts and bottom of the jacket and at the cuffs. Make sure there are no raw edges left showing when you are done.
  10. Add any final embellishments such as buttons and button holes or decorative touches you desire.

Congratulations! You just completed your quilt jacket!

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First Handmade Quilted Coat Quilt Jacket

Quilt Coat

After looking at many pictures and photos of handmade quilted jackets, I decided to try my hand at one. I love antique quilts for what they are and decided I would make mine from new fabrics as I did not want to cut up an already made quilt.

Basically, I created a mini quilt for each pattern piece I needed. I decided to use simple large fabric squares for my quilt pattern. After making each mini quilt, I washed and dried them to allow for shrinkage and to give the pieces a nice “quilty” feel.

After washing and drying, I cut out my pattern pieces, sewed them together, finished all the seams with binding as I sewed them, and bound the outside raw edges just like I would a regular quilt. I added buttons and buttonholes for the finishing touch.

I am very pleased with the finished result. I love the quilted coat. I am disappointed that it is a little too big for me, though. I will have to make another one, now.

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Country Charmer Quilt Top

Country Charmer quilt top

In October of 2013, I stumbled across the Country Charmer Quilt Along. I fell in love with that quilt and decided I would make one myself. At the time, I had about 2 years of quilt making under my belt, yet I challenged myself to figure out the cutting and sewing of the block.

Here is the very first block I made in that pattern. As you can see, I turned around the first row and sewed it on backward. It is such a persnickety little block and I was concentrating so hard on other aspects, that I totally flaked on the position of the row!

After three unsuccessful attempts at making the block come out at 8 1/2 inches unfinished, I ordered the pattern, which uses 20 blocks to make a 60 x 70 quilt. I recalculated and decided to make mine a queen size using 56 blocks. This made for an ambitious project.

Though I had the pattern, I was still struggling to make these blocks come out at the right size. Mine were measuring closer to 8 unfinished. Below is my fourth attempt at making the block and my Facebook post at the time notes that it still doesn’t measure correctly. After a time, I put the project into my closet and moved on.

However, I couldn’t forget it. I knew it was there and I just loved the quilt. I wanted to finish it one day.

When I did my quilting inventory in March, the Country Charmer was added to the list of unfinished projects. After completing a couple of other items, I decided to pull it out and work on it. Needless to say, even with an additional 9 years of quilting experience, I still struggled with getting the block to the right size. I decided to downsize the quilt and make just 35 blocks and have it finish at 70 x 92 inches. Finally, I completed all of the blocks in early April of 2024. I was psyched!

The sashing is a three piece unit and the cornerstones are 9-patches. I located the fabric, cut the strips and began the process of sewing the sashing and cornerstones. I tried to keep from letting this project overwhelm me. I knew I was moving forward and so I plugged along.

On April 7, 2024, I finally had the top done without the borders. You cannot imagine my elation!

After sewing on the first border, I had to stop for a day to work. I was so afraid I wouldn’t get this top done. It was haunting me. I knew I couldn’t put the project away with it only needing one border.

I was up early the morning of April 9 and though I had work looming over my head, I sat down at my machine and sewed that final border onto the Country Charmer quilt top. I quickly set up my ironing board and pressed the quilt top.

As I spread that Country Charmer quilt top out onto the floor, I was extremely pleased! You do not see all of the struggles that I had with each and every block. It just looks beautiful! I am so glad I finished it. Nine and one-half years in the making.

The Country Charmer quilt top was finished on April 9, 2024. It measures 70 x 92 inches. It is plenty big enough for me!

Country Charmer quilt top. I started the project in November of 2014 and completed the quilt top on April 9, 2024.
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Pick-up Sticks Quilt 3 Just for Fun

Pick-up Sticks Quilt 3

With only 71 quilts in progress (38 quilt tops finished and 33 projects in the works), I thought I should start another quilt!

This one is called Pick-up Sticks and I have made it twice before – one is a finished quilt and one is a UFO that still needs backing, batting and quilting.

I had a whole stack of 5-inch squares that I have been eyeing for quite some time. They were cut when I made the first two Pick-up Sticks quilts. They happened to be stored in a little bin that had some pretty medium pink floral strips I picked up at a yard sale that were irregularly cut. I decided to pair that fabric with my squares and make a new Pick-up Sticks Quilt.

Pick-up Sticks Quilt 3
Pick-up Sticks Quilt 3 with light, fun fabrics!

The whole quilt is made from 5-inch squares cut in half, then a rectangle of contrasting fabric is sewn between the two halves to make a 5-inch square! It has a pretty, triangle-shape border you make using half-square-triangle-squares. I can’t wait to see this one done!

EDIT 03-08-2024: The quilt top is done.

Pick-up Sticks Quilt 3
Pick-up Sticks Quilt Top 3 Completed 03-08-2024 Measures 76.5 x 90 inches.

The pattern is from Fons & Porter’s magazine, October 2011 issue. It was featured on the cover and it is one of the first patterns that I followed to make a quilt.

Fons & Porter’s Magazine, October 2011 issue with Pick-up Sticks Quilt pattern

And you know I am not working on just one project. I also sewed the blocks for my daughter’s 2nd 3 and 5 doggy quilt. I have the blocks all organized into rows and ready to sew together to get the second quilt top finished. I have one top done for her already and I am getting ready to quilt it. I am making her two using the same fabrics and they are doggy quilts because she will use them to cover her good quilts on her bed to keep her dog from laying on them.

Here is a peak at that project.

Leah's 3 and 5 Quilt 2
Leah’s 3 and 5 Quilt 2 – the blocks are stacked and ready to sew into rows

Remember sewing friends, “every quilter has a masterpiece inside” so get in that sewing room and start stitching!

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Blackford’s Beauty Table Runner Quilt with On Point Setting

I made this pretty little sweetie when I was first learning to quilt about 10 or 12 years ago. Unfortunately it’s been sitting on a bureau top collecting all sorts of junk. Now it has a tear and many stains on it. To make matters worse, a plant leaked on it and made the red run color.

One of my Facebook friends said this about it, “Lovingly antiqued”.

I replied, “Almost ruined. Very sad. It was quite a nice piece, especially for a beginner quilter, as I was when I made it.”

Blackford's Beauty Table Runner Quilt
Blackford’s Beauty Table Runner Quilt

I even Free Motion quilted it. I can’t believe I did this when I was first learning quilting.

I have fabrics picked out to make another one. I don’t know when I will get it done, but I am ready when the time is right.

Maybe I will write up the pattern when I redo it. I found this pattern in a quilt magazine, but I don’t have it anymore.

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Beginner Free Motion Quilting on a Juki TL-2010Q Home Sewing Machine

Ribbon Star Quilt Free Motion Quilted Juki TL-2010Q

I love to quilt and I love quilts. I see beautiful quilts with fancy free motion quilting all over them and I drool. However, they were quilted on specialized quilting machines and often with the aid of computerized software. I do not have a quilting machine. I own several home sewing machines and the one I use for free motion quilting is my Juki TL-2010Q. The reason I use this machine is because it has a larger throat space.

Note: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

My quilts will never have that perfect free motion quilting stitch on them. I can’t get perfection as I am human and my machine is not computerized. However, a finished quilt is much better than a quilt top. So, I quilt my quilts my way.

I quilted three or four quilts with my Juki machine and hadn’t done any free motion quilting on a large quilt until yesterday. The two quilts layered and batted begged to be quilted. Yesterday, I decided to quilt one of them.

Setting Up the Machine for Free Motion Quilting

Fire and Ice Ribbon Star Quilt Layered and Batted
Fire and Ice Ribbon Star Quilt Layered and Batted

First, I tested my machine’s free motion stitch to see if it was locking properly. I inserted my Free Motion Quilting Foot into my machine and left the Gutermann Sew-All Polyester Thread I use when I am piecing on the machine. It stitches beautifully when I am sewing seams so I thought I would try this thread first. As I made some basic free motion patterns like a stipple and a loop and circles, it stitched beautifully.

I left the Gutermann thread in the top in but I used a multicolor Sulky 40wt Variegated Rayon Thread in my bobbin because I needed the color to match the back of the quilt. My first stitches showed that my bobbin was not locking tight enough and showing on the top of the quilting piece. I search Google. A website said, “tighten your bobbin case tension“. I bravely tighten my bobbin case tension and turned the screw ¼ turn to tighten. My bobbin stitches still showed. I tightened it again by giving it another ¼ turn and my machine stitched perfectly.

Now that I had the thread down and knew my machine was going to stitch correctly, I focused on the pattern to use. I practiced a clamshell pattern which I thought would make a nice all over free motion quilting pattern. I was doing a pretty good job so I moved on.

Getting Started Free Motion Quilting

I pulled the backed and batted quilt out of its clear bag and loaded it under my machine. Blogs were telling me to start in the middle of the quilt. Starting in the middle of the quilt seemed risky. I feared I would have a bunch in the back and I wanted to start on one end and side. The quilt had a border so I started inside the border and left the border to quilt afterward. Once I loaded my quilt into the machine, I knew immediately that I was not going to do a clamshell stitch on this quilt.

Free Motion Quilting on Juki TL-2010Q
Free Motion Quilting on Juki TL-2010Q

Bravely, I began stitching anyway not even sure of my pattern. As I stitched, it came to me do a sort of flame pattern alternating between a long and mid-way flame up and down in short bands across the quilt. After I quilted the pattern for a few inches, I stood up over the stitches to view them front and back to make sure my machine was stitching properly. Everything looked good and I proceeded to complete the first row.

The stitching looked neat and tidy and I was pleased. The light tan top thread matched the background and sashing and blended well with my blocks and cornerstones though they were brightly colored Batiks. The thread only showed boldly on the turquoise-colored fabric. The bright colored variegated thread for the back blended with the multicolor backing and was not showing through on the top at all.

Take Breaks When Free Motion Quilting

After I had completed three progressions across the quilt, I took a break to show my husband and admire my work. My daughter came while I was showing my husband and she played around with some free motion quilting on a sample piece while we visited. All the time she worked on my machine, my machine stitched perfectly. The photo on the right shows her work and colored thread is the wrong side of her stitches.

Leah's Free Motion Practice Piece
Leah’s Free Motion Practice Piece

After she left, I went back to work. Suddenly, my top thread frayed and broke. Hesitantly, I rethreaded my machine  and started quilting again. My thread broke again. I was dismayed. The thread breaking can cause me to set the quilting aside and just do the piecing work. I took my quilt off the machine, rethreaded again, and loosened my top thread tension a bit. I started quilting again and everything went smoothly. My machine hummed along and I did not break my thread again.

I finished quilting the entire quilt in one day. The overall effect was very nice and appropriate for the quilt as I was calling this quilt “Fire and Ice” because of the fabrics used. The free-motion flame pattern matched my quilt nicely and my stitches looked pretty good for an amateur.

General Notes on Free Motion Quilting on a Home Sewing Machine

It is not easy to free motion quilt on a home sewing machine. Though my Juki TL-2010Q Sewing Machine has a larger throat space, it is still a rather small area for bed-size quilts and the quilt gets quite scrunched up in that small area. I stop frequently to smooth and adjust the quilt under the work area. It is important to make sure I am only stitching through the three layers and not catching another part of the quilt under my foot.

When it comes to quilting on your home machine, just do it. Practice free motion quilting. Change threads. Adjust your machine tension as needed. Practice on pieces made from the same fabrics in your quilt. Even if you never learn any fancy free-motion stitches, use a basic stipple and just do it. Quilt that quilt! A finished quilt can be used and admired, but no one can enjoy those quilt tops in a storage tub tucked into the closet.

Ribbon Star Quilt Free Motion Quilted Juki TL-2010Q
Ribbon Star Quilt Free Motion Quilted Juki TL-2010Q

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Eventide Quilt Top Finish – Treasure Found in a Storage Tub

Eventide Quilt Top in Blues and Greens

As I stated in a previous post, I found some treasures in one of my quilter’s storage tubs – a quilt top all cut out and ready to sew called Eventide. I found this quilt on the Internet a few years back when it was part of a sew-along put on by Cupcakes ‘n Daisies. The sew-along is long past, but Thelma has several posts still up including one called “Eventide Parade” where you can view several pictures of participants’ quilt tops. The original pattern is from Miss Rosie’s Quilt Company but I made my own pattern.

When I found this quilt ready to sew I was in an “Ohio Star” kind of mood. I had just completed a quilt called “Square Dance” from a book I have on scrap quilts. That was my third Square Dance quilt. I then completed a quilt top called Scrappy Ohio Stars with sashing and a border and was already dreaming of another Ohio Star quilt. I had such a fever to finish this quilt that I sewed the entire weekend and finished the top on Sunday morning.

Eventide Quilt Top from Ohio Stars
Eventide Quilt Top from Ohio Stars

I wanted a good photo of the quilt top and laid it out on the bed. However, the artificial light did nothing to flatter the features of the quilt and the overhang on the sides hid the effect of the red borders. I knew I needed a full shot of the entire quilt top. I looked out the kitchen window trying to figure out how I could get it hung up outdoors and saw the shed was lit nicely in the mid-morning sunshine. I got out my ladder and my little stapler and tacked the quilt top to the shed wall. The effect was stunning! I got this beautiful photo of my finished Eventide quilt top.

The original pattern calls for a border all around, but I really like it without the border. However, I added another row of blocks across the bottom to make mine finish at about 78 x 90 inches. I have already ordered the backing and I can’t wait to get this one layered and quilted.

I am now dreaming of another Eventide in a different color scheme. I swore I wouldn’t create unfinished tops but I just can’t stop piecing blocks!

 

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How to Make a 9-inch Ohio Star Quilt Block – A Visual Guide

Beautiful 9-inch Ohio Star quilt block

This is a visual guide to making a 9-inch Ohio Star quilt block using actual photos from making one 9-inch Ohio Star block.

Pieces for 9 inch Ohio Star Quilt Block
Pieces for 9 inch Ohio Star Quilt Block

Cut your pieces for the quilt block as follows:

Background Fabric – in the above photo, it is the blue on white fabric

  • 4 3 ½ inch squares
  • 1 4 ¼ inch square cut in half diagonally twice

Star Fabric – in the above photo, it is the light green tonal floral fabric

  • 1 3 ½ inch square for star center
  • 2 4 ¼ inch square cut in half diagonally twice for star points

Contrast Fabric – in the above photo, it is the dark green tonal leaf fabric

  • 1 4 ¼ inch square cut in half diagonally twice for contrast

Sewing the triangle pieces together for Ohio Star quilt block
Sew the background triangles and contrast triangles to the star triangles with right sides together and star triangles always on the bottom. Sew down the right edge from the 90 degree angle as shown.

 

Background and contrast triangles sewn to star triangles
Background and contrast triangles sewn to star triangles

 

Star side of sewn triangle pieces for Ohio Star quilt block
Star side of sewn triangle pieces for Ohio Star quilt block

 

Press seam toward star triangle for Ohio Quilt block
Press seam toward star triangle on all pieces for Ohio Quilt block

 

Sew background triangle sets to contrast triangle sets along long edge nesting seams for Ohio Star quilt block
Sew background triangle sets to contrast triangle sets along long edge nesting seams

 

Press seam on sewn triangle pieces for Ohio Star quilt block
Open sewn triangles pieces and press seam toward contrast triangle

 

Trim dog ears from sewn triangle pieces for Ohio Star quilt block
Trim dog ears from sewn triangle pieces for Ohio Star quilt block

 

Arrange the sewn triangles to form Ohio Star quilt block
Arrange the sewn triangles with the background squares and the center square to form Ohio Star quilt block. Make sure your contrast triangles border the center square and the background triangles are on the outer edge.

 

Sew the rows together first for the Ohio Star quilt block
Sew the rows together first for the Ohio Star quilt block. Keep checking to be sure you have the parts in the correct order as you sew.

 

Pressing seams on Ohio Star quilt block
Press the seams inward for middle row and outward for outside rows for the Ohio Star quilt block

 

Sew the rows together nesting the seams for the Ohio Star quilt block
Sew the rows together nesting the seams for the Ohio Star quilt block. Make sure you keep your rows in the correct order as you sew that third row onto the block.

 

Pressing the row seams on the Ohio Star quilt block
Press the row seams outward on the Ohio Star quilt block

 

Beautiful 9 inch Ohio Star quilt block
Turn the block over and admire your beautiful 9-inch Ohio Star quilt block

As you can see, my block is not perfectly square. It tends to bow a little at the middle row. I do not trim it because this is caused by the fabric stretching. When I sew the block into the quilt, I just keep the edges of the two pieces I am sewing even with each other and stitch a quarter inch seam. Once the quilt is completely finished and washed, it all looks fine. I use unwashed fabric when I am quilting so the fabric shrinkage outweighs any wonkiness in the blocks themselves and the washing helps bring the fabric back into shape.

 

 

 

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Hunter’s Star and Eventide Quilt Pieces – Treasures in a Quilter’s Storage Container

Eventide Quilt Blocks found in a storage tub

So I was going through my storage tubs the other day and found one that was a complete surprise. When I saw what was inside, I remembered starting the projects but had forgotten all about them. Here is the tub.

 

Quilter's Storage Tub
Quilter’s Storage Tub

Here is pictorial of what I found when I opened the tub.

Hunter's Star from scrap fabrics
Hunter’s Star from scrap fabrics

 

Block parts to more Hunter's Star blocks
Block parts to more Hunter’s Star blocks

 

Cut pieces for Hunter's Star blocks
Cut pieces for Hunter’s Star blocks

 

Border pieces to an Eventide quilt top
Border pieces to an Eventide quilt top

 

Ohio Star block and Hourglass block to Eventide Quilt
Ohio Star block and Hourglass block to Eventide Quilt

 

Hourglass pieces to an Eventide quilt top
Hourglass pieces to an Eventide quilt top with my sketchy directions I wrote from a picture of an Eventide Quilt

 

Cut pieces for the Ohio Star blocks of an Eventide quilt top
Cut pieces for the Ohio Star blocks of an Eventide quilt top

I was very happy when I found this tub as I am in an “Ohio Star” mood and had just completed a scrappy Ohio Star quilt. I wanted to make another one but I am working on Christmas gifts so I put the thought aside. When I saw these neatly cut and stacked pieces for the Eventide quilt which is composed of small and large Ohio Star blocks, I just had to work on it. I spent my entire Saturday sewing and completed all of the blocks and one border length and put those all together to complete most of the top. I only have the other border and side to attach and the top will be done. I will post a picture of the top soon, I promise!

What treasures have you found in your storage tubs?

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Online Quilt Calculator

Online Quilt Calculator – great for adjusting quilt patterns; calculating blocks needed, number of cornerstones and sashings; and overhang on different bed sizes.

Have you ever found a beautiful quilt pattern that you want to make but the size is wrong? Do you struggle to figure out the number of blocks, sashings, cornerstones that you will need to make a quilt? Do you simply hate math and doing all the figuring and just want to sew? Now the Online Quilt Calculator can help you!

Here is one way it works. You find a pattern you like. Your pattern provides the following information:

Quilt Size: 70” x 80”
Blocks: 42 (8”) blocks

The quilt has 2” sashings with cornerstones. The pattern tells you to cut:

56 (2”) cornerstones
97 (2” x 8”) sashing pieces.

You want to make a quilt that measures 96” x 98” inches using this pattern. Go to the Online Quilt Calculator and enter the following information:

Block Size: 8 (from the pattern)
Desired Quilt Width: 96 (your desired width)
Desired Quilt Length: 98 (your desired length)
Sashing Width: 2 (from the pattern)
Cornerstones: Yes (fromt the pattern)

Click on Calculate. The following results are displayed:

________________________________________
Suggested Blocks Across: 9
Suggested Blocks Down: 10
________________________________________
Total Blocks Needed: 90
Actual Quilt Width: 92
Actual Quilt Length: 102
Block Size: 8
Cornerstones: 110 2-inch
Sashings: 199 2″ x 8″

If you use the suggested blocks, the quilt is 6 inches narrower and 6 inches shorter than you desire. You can adjust the blocks across and blocks down to 10 and 11 respectively and enter these numbers into the Adjust Your Results to see that if you add one block across and one block down, your quilt will be 102” wide and 112” inches long as shown below.

Adjusted Blocks Needed: 110
Adjusted Quilt Width: 102
Adjusted Quilt Length: 112
Block Size: 8
Adjusted Cornerstones: 132 2-inch
Adjusted Sashings: 241 2″ x 8″

Go back to your original input and try adding a border. In this instance, adding two 4-inch borders brings the quilt size to 98″ x 98″. It also reduces the number of blocks, cornerstones, and sashings needed. This is very close to the desired quilt size. Now you can decide whether to go with the 9 across and 10 down to make a quilt 92” x 102” or make it 10 across and 11 down for the larger quilt at 102” x 112” or add a couple of borders to the first option to make your quilt 98″ x 98″.

This is one way to use the Online Quilt Calculator. You can also use it to create any quilt based on block size and desired width and length. Try changing the block size, and add or remove sashing, cornerstones, and borders to see how they affect the number of blocks needed and the quilt size. It is a lot of fun playing around with the numbers and the best part is – you don’t have to do any of the math yourself!

Try out the new Online Quilt Calculator and see for yourself. If you have a moment, drop me a line and let know what you think of it. I am also open to suggestions for improving it and making it more valuable and functional for traditional and non-traditional quilters. Just send me an email through my contact page to let me know your thoughts.